'A Chiena 🥵🏡🔫🪣💦 Per Molto Caldo
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| On the shuttle to 'A Chiena completely unaware for what we were in for! |
There are steps we take to combat the extreme heat:
- abundance of Liquid IV packs at the ready
- always pack a water bottle
- carry a sweat cloth at all times
- steer clear of most polyester
- wine and cocktails in moderation this time of year
- AC at night so you don't suffocate in your sleep
- Walk to the store early or late but not midday
Now if you need to know how to winterize your car, layer your winter clothes, optimize winter heating fuel, and pick out -40 rated parkas, we've got you covered. As the saying goes, you can always put on more clothes but at some point there's only so much you can take off! Luckily, we live in the beachside area of Lucrino where less clothes is more socially acceptable than say downtown Napoli, but still, it's molto molto caldo! This notion that "August" is the dead heat of summer and not midst of autumn, with the threat of snow, is a hard transition!
One way we had not brainstormed to deal with the heat was a giant water fight - you know, because we are in our 40s and members of civilized society...BUT... when in Italy...
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| The kind of event that is more fun to enjoy with friends. Friends that don't mind taking a bucket of water to the face or a sneak attack water pistol down the back! |
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| Basically everyday in August looks like this in southern Italy. It's blazing hot. Daily. Seems most days have had a high of 95 but the "feels like temp" is 101 with 70% humidity. Molto molto caldo. |
Combating the heat is done precisely that way in the city of Campagna (not to be confused with the region of Campania, pronounced the same) in the province of Salerno (not to be confused with the city of Salerno!) So, on a molto caldo August day we carpooled 120km to participate in a truly unique way of cooling down and a truly unique cultural aspect of southern Italy.
'A Chiena - literally "the flood-" takes place every Saturday and Sunday from mid July to mid August. This year the fun has been extended two extra weeks into August! It is believed to have originated in the 1600s, likely after a plague outbreak in 1668. In the molto caldo summer months, there was death literally in the air and 🐴💩 in the streets. The 'A Chiena event diverts the local River Tenza into the streets of Campagna: a practical street cleanse back in the day and a refreshing mountain water cold plunge today! In 1982 the tradition began that continues today. There was a devastating earthquake in nearby Irpinia in 1980 that impacted this entire region. Thousands were killed and thousands more injured. In 1982, 'A Chiena was revitalized as a way to bring joy back to the devastated mountain towns.
And joyous it was. And wet!! Kids laughing contagiously in the streets, in the streams, and the literal gutters. And by kids I mean Brian, myself, and our friends Marni and Jake 🤣 The day starts with what they call The Walk which is when the slightly divert the stream into the streets. The purpose is simply to enjoy the refreshing water on your feet while having a snack and a drink while chatting with friends and listening to the music pumping out from the DJ. You can make your way to the river - the wateline now low enough to frolic in the water - if you want to indulge in water warfare. But there had to be more, we thought. Every street vender had waterproof cell phone pouches, blue buckets, and a range of water guns for sale. We thought it was more than just getting our feet wet, as refreshing as that was.
"The Bucket" is an absolute free for all. To be honest, we thought the rumours of "a waterfight in the streets" had been greatly exaggerated and we were getting ready to head out, when we saw people beginning to line the main street and rhythmically drum their buckets. It was as if they were summoning the water. And they did! Once the water reached our part of the street, no one was safe. Do you exist? You're a target! I expected it to devolve into malicious targeting but rather it was playful, innocent, unadulterated, merrymaking. A gentleman, who exuded dad vibes, made eye contact with me and flung a bucket of chilly street water in my face. As I cleared my eyes and readied my own bucket he was pointing and giggling while a small girl nailed him with water gun stream to his knee caps!
During The Bucket, many people were on second floor (North American 1st floor) balconies observing the fun from a "safe" distance. A few onlookers were clearly locals, as it's hard to describe, but equally hard to miss, the look of an Italian nonna on a Sunday afternoon. Brian and Jake made eye contact and silently made their mischievous plan to "invite" her to the fight. Man that nonna could move as she slammed her shutters and escaped just in time! They targeted her a few more times before heading onto their next victims. I later learned that another water soaked patron had given them the idea! I'm guessing that Italian knew better than to mess with nonna!
After an hour of absolute pandemonium the river returns to normal and the streets are left to dry in the 100 degree sun. The usually supremely put together Italians were wandering the streets in the same state we were: soaking wet and disheveled. A few kids had reached the end of their tolerance for the day and clearly needed a nap and, honestly, we weren't too far behind them. The sun quickly helped us dry out to acceptable levels to make the drive home. With buckets and water guns ready for next year, we've added a way to stymie the August heat!
A short compilation of the day. Grateful my phone didn't commit soakacide. Thanks Jessica for the nifty phone protector that has now been snorkling and 'A Chiena-ing!
'A Chiena complete and un po' meno caldo!
🇮🇹 A Few Notes for Those Who Might
Want to Venture that Way:
- The event is annual from mid July to mid August
- There are three events left this year (Aug16, Aug18, Aug25)
- Campagna is about 1hr15 from Napoli, towards the Amalfi Coast but inland
- Parking! You park here, staff will directly you where to park. Parking is free!
- Walk to a shuttle that takes you to the event. There's no parking in that part of town and it's not really walkable. Just follow the people!
- Tickets for the shuttle are €8. Getting them online makes the liner faster. Do that here. It is a return ticket.
- The process, and the lines 😂, we much more orderly than you'd expect
- The Walk and Bucket times are different on each day, so see the schedule. With kids, The Walk part at the stream is best. The Bucket is great but a lot going on!
- If you have a drybag backpack, bring it! Otherwise, leave towels and clothes in the car and just wear your bathingsuit or a tee shirt. Everything else will get soaked!
- They sell buckets and cheap water guns there! (€5 for three). Also sell phone cases on a lanyard (these also work great at the beach later!) Remember euro paper money is made of plastic, which is helpful! (I did panic about our electric gate fob but it was ok)'
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| Even in the midst of water pandemonium, Italians will make time and space for a caffè |
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